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Food guide: Geylang Serai

by Gregory Leow

inSing.com - 25 October 2012 2:37 PM | Updated 29 Oct 2012

Hajjah Mona's nasi Padang

There is no better place for an all-in-one slice of Malay culture. After all, Geylang Serai is one of the oldest Malay enclaves in Singapore. Here, walk into shopping malls circa 1980s selling Malay textiles, crafts, traditional clothing, markets for fresh produce, spices and of course, some of the best Muslim/Indian food in Singapore.

The best eats are concentrated at two food centres here, at Geylang Serai Market and Food Centre and Haig Road Market & Food Centre, though there are some gems to be found in coffee shops and along the side streets south of Geylang Road.

Here is an assortment of the best local foods that Geylang Serai has to offer:

A pleasing chendol | Photo: Gregory Leow

Chendol
A classic dessert in its best light
At first glance, Cendol Geylang Serai’s chendol ($1.50 a bowl) might seem lacking C no fancy toppings like durian or ice cream and not even red beans or chin chow (grass jelly). They simply add gula Melaka, coconut cream, ice shavings and homemade soft chendol slivers that are not garishly green. On its own, this slightly sweet bowl it might be too delicate, even watery (they don’t overdo the coconut cream), but eat it after a meal and it fits the definition of ‘refreshing’.
Cendol Geylang Serai | Address: #02-107 Geylang Serai Market and Food Centre, 1 Geylang Serai | Tel: 94855845 | Opening hours: Daily 9am-7pm

Our very own KFC | Photo credit: Gregory Leow

Fried chicken
Singapore’s very own southern-style fried chicken
This locally-owned fast food-style fried chicken joint has been operating since 1984. The herbs and spices in Arnold's Fried Chicken’s batter mix are not as robust as, say, KFC’s, but the chain more than makes up for it with its crispy and tender fried chicken ($6.60 for a two-piece meal). The best thing about it being local is that you get extras you would never find in a typical fast food joint - in this case - drinks like iced bandung (condensed milk and rose water), iced Milo and ice kachang as a dessert option.
Arnold's Fried Chicken | Address: 810 Geylang Road, #02-99/101 City Plaza | Tel: 67462372 | Opening hours: Daily 11.30am-9.45pm

Biryanis are very delicate, especially this one | Photo credit: Gregory Leow

Nasi biryani
Malay yellow rice cooked with meticulousness
Hardcore fans will say that the spices have tamed over the years but no one will disagree that Geylang Briyani Stall still holds one of the top spots for biryani ($5). Special attention has been paid to every aspect of the dish: the meat (especially the mutton) is tender, the basmati rice is fluffy and buttery, and the masala gravy is robust with flavour. The achar (pickled vegetables) C made without colouring C has a nice crunch and freshness to it. The accompanying thick lentil curry with its almost melting potato pieces is not watered down like many other stalls do it.
Geylang Biryani Stall| Address: 1 Geylang Serai, #02-146 Geylang Serai Market and Food Centre | Opening hours: Tue-Sun 9am-5pm

CRITICS’ PICK Nasi Padang
Rendang that stands out
There are plenty of nasi padang stalls around Geylang Serai, two of which have consistently gotten all the media attention: Sinar Pagi Nasi Padang andHJ. Maimunah Restaurant & Catering. Hajjah Mona Nasi Padang has always been in the shadow, though it should not be.

Hajjah Mona does its nasi Padang differently: their beef rendang is rich and extremely soft and their dry-fried tempeh is dry, crunchy with a more intense flavour because they do not add a lot, if any, water. The vegetables in their urap salad C tossed with serundeng (sautéed coconut shavings) C is barely cooked for that raw and fresh bite. Other stalls make the dish more like a stir fry.

Whether you like their this different approach boils down to how you like your rendang done, but their boldness earns Hajjah Mona a recommendation above the other two.
Hajjah Mona Nasi Padang | Address: 1 Geylang Serai, #02-166 Geylang Serai Market and Food Centre | Tel: 82826902 | Opening hours: Thu-Tue 8a